The Hitting Machine Baseball Blog

10 Base Running Tips For Little League Baseball Players

2011-10-10T07:07:00.000-04:00

There are several important coaching points that need to be remembered when teaching Little League players to run the bases correctly. This article presents 10 coaching points for little league baseball runners related to first baseball.

Coaching Points related to base running at 1st base:

1. The batter must sprint out of the batter's box and take a straight line path toward first base. The batter base runner must "honor" the base running box. The base running box allows the umpire to determine if a base runner is inside the base line. If a runner gets inside the foul line and a throw ball makes contact with the runner, the batter base runner is out. If a ball is a slow roller in the direction of first base, the batter base runner must avoid contact with the ball. Stepping on, contacting or touching the ball in fair territory will result in an out.
2. When a batter hits the ball his approach to first base is determined by the location of the hit ball as it travels into the field. If the ball is a fielded grounder, the base runner will run through the bag at 1st.
3. If the hit ball gets by the infielder, either as a hit or error, the batter base runner should do a "hook" path as he approaches first base to give him a straighter angle to advance to second base if the first base coach sends him.
4. The batter base runner should run hard through the bag when he is attempting to beat a throw to first. The runner should concentrate on running to a spot about 15 feet past the bag. When the runner touches the bag, the runner's foot should land on the front 1/3 of the bag.
5. The batter base runner should always look to the right when he crosses the bag on a close play. This look allows the batter base runner to see if the throw was missed by the first baseman.
6. If the base runner is sent to second, the runner should only contact the inner corner of the base as he makes the turn toward second base.
7. The runner should always run everything out as if the ball is fair. The runner should hustle and assume that all fly balls will be missed.
8. The runner must run out all foul balls because of the "roll back" rule. If a foul ball hits and kicks back into fair territory between home and 1st base or between home and 3rd base, the ball is fair. The ball will be fair as long as the ball does not contact a bat, fence, dugout, or fielder.
9. The batter base runner that sees an errant throw should not immediately advance to second. The runner must listen to his coach. The coach will make sure that the catcher is not trailing the play.
10. Older or advanced runners may be taught to read the firstbaseman's footwork to detect a possible catch ad tag play. If the throw from the fielder pulls the first baseman off the bag, the only possibility for getting the runner out is a tag. If the runner sees the first baseman coming off the bag toward him, he should slide to avoid the tag.

Blocking Tips for Catchers

2011-08-28T14:40:00.000-04:00

Before we explore today’s tip, first let’s review a few requirements for the successful blocking a wild pitch.
Remember, blocking is really three things combined into one:

First, the bounced ball must hit the catcher squarely in the chest area.
Second, the resulting ricochet must stay close to his body.
And to complete the play, the catcher must have enough athleticism to bounce on the block and throw out an aggressive base runner.

Staying Still

For today’s purposes, let’s take a better look at the second part--keeping the block close. If you recall, the reaction of two things moving towards and colliding with each other is going to be dramatic.
In other words, if a catcher is still moving when the ball strikes his chest, the ricochet is going to bounce too far from his body to be effective. To best control and predict the trajectory of a blocked ball, the catcher must have stopped his forward momentum by the time he and ball meet.

Gotta Get Down

I’ve seen a wide variety of blocking methods, but almost all the good ones share this common trait. That is, good blockers get down quickly and with violent conviction.
I’ve yet to see someone get the job done consistently with slow, soft movements. For some reason when you go at a block lethargically, the body never completes it’s movement and the ricochet becomes impossible to control.

Need for Speed

So to sum it up and to simplify, make all of your blocks one speed...fast. Regardless of the pitch’s velocity, be it a slow breaking ball or a fast ball, your reaction if it’s in the dirt is going to be violent and quick.
With that commitment, it just boils down to timing. Obviously, for an over-the-top curve you’re just going to wait longer than a hard slider to start the whole process.
Once comfortable with the timing, the violent blocking technique ultimately allows a catcher to stop body movement at the right time and control the ricochet of a wild pitch.
And when a catcher can do that, his pitching staff can go for the strike out and stay down in the zone with confidence.

History of The Slide in Baseball

2011-08-06T15:51:00.001-04:00

Overview

You have many ways to help your baseball team win. One of them is baserunning. It's not just about speed. Great baserunners have instincts about the fielder who is throwing the ball and the situation his team faces in a game. He also knows how to get a good jump off the base and slide properly to avoid a tag. A proper slide can be the difference in winning and losing.

Early Slides

The slide was made famous before the 20th century by "Sliding" Billy Hamilton, who played for the Kansas City Cowboys, Philadelphia Phillies and the Boston Beaneaters. Hamilton was an excellent hitter who used his speed to become the first prolific base stealer in the game's history. Hamilton finished his career with 937 stolen bases and once stole seven bases in a game.

Spikes High

In the early part of the 20th century, the game turned quite vicious and players not only tried to win games, they also tried to injure their opponents. John McGraw, the manager of the New York Giants, urged his players to go into a base with their spikes high and attempt to cut a fielder who tried to tag a Giant base runner out. McGraw's Giants were one of the game's dominant teams and they set a trend that others followed. Nobody picked up the "spikes high" sliding routine more than Ty Cobb. The Detroit Tigers' star center fielder may have been the best hitter to play the game and he finished his career with 892 stolen bases when he retired after the 1928 season. Cobb would sharpen his metal spikes before games to intimidate opposing fielders who attempted to tag him out. Baseball eventually stopped base runners from sharpening their spikes and attempting to injure competitors.

Head First Slide

While the practice can lead to injury, the head-first slide is often looked at by baseball players as one of the most efficient ways of sliding into a base effectively. The upside of sliding head first is that you can easily maneuver your body and your hands on a close play, and you have a better chance of avoiding a tag. The downside is that it can lead to injury. A fielder may slap a hard tag down and injure a player's wrists or fingers. That tag could miss the player's hands and end up hitting him in the head, leading to additional injuries. Many players have used the head first slide over the years but Pete Rose mastered it during his career with the Cincinnati Reds, Philadelphia Phillies and Montreal Expos. Hall of Famer Ricky Henderson, baseball's all-time leader in stolen bases, also used the head first slide to dominate the game. He is baseball's all-time leader in stolen bases with 1,406.

Buying the Right Baseball Bat

2011-06-22T22:14:00.000-04:00

* Baseball Bat Types *

Tee-Ball Bats
Tee-Ball bats are for ages approx 5 thru 7. They are generally used in tee-ball and coach pitch leagues. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 25 inch to 27 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.

Little League Bats
Little League bats are for ages approx 7 thru 12. They are used in leagues including Little League, Babe Ruth, Dixie Youth, PONY, and AABC. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.

Senior League Bats
Senior League bats are for ages approx 10 thru 13. They are used in certain travel and tournament leagues. The bat barrel is available in 2 5/8 inch (high school regulation), and 2 3/4 inch (Big Barrel). Bat lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 5 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 11.

High School / College Bats
High School / College bats are for ages approx 13 and up. They are used in most High School and College leagues. The bat barrel is 2 5/8 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 30 inch to 34 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which must be minus 3. Most leagues require an approved BESR stamp on the bat (Bat Exit Speed Rating).

- General Terms -

Weight Drop

Weight Drop is a term used to describe the weight of the bat. Weight Drop is shown as a minus number, such as minus 3 or minus 12. It refers to the difference between the length of the bat (in inches) and the weight of the bat (in ounces). Weight drop varies between brands and models. For example, a Little League DeMarini F3 bat is minus 10. It is available in lengths from 28 inch to 32 inch. The weight of the 28 inch would be 18 ounces, the weight of the 32 inch would be 22 ounces. Weight drop for Little League bats range from approx minus 7 to minus 13. The higher the weight drop, the lighter the bat. High school and college bats must be minus 3.

Barrel Size

This is the diameter of the largest part of the bat. Little League bats are 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Senior League bats are available in 2 5/8 inch and 2 3/4 inch (big barrel). High school and college bats are 2 5/8 inch.

The longer and larger the barrel, generally, the larger the sweet spot for hitting the ball.

Some players prefer baseball bats with smaller barrels and lighter weight, which allows for more bat speed.

Bat Taper (diameter of the bat's handle)

Standard baseball bats are tapered 31/32 of an inch but can be slightly larger or smaller depending on whether you want a lighter or heavier bat.

Some players like a narrower taper for the lighter weight and to rotate their wrists faster when hitting. Other players prefer the feel of a bigger bat taper, which can also reduce the sting when a ball isn't struck on the sweet spot.

Grip (covering on the handle of aluminum bats)

Baseball bats with leather or synthetic leather grips give a tackier feel for a surer grip.

Rubber grips absorb more of the shock.

Some bats come with a cushioned grip to decrease the shock even more.

- Choosing Youth Baseball Bats -

First, three words about bats: "Lighter Is Better"

Barry Bonds, who weighs 195 pounds, uses a 28 ounce bat! A light bat is easier to control, and, contrary to old-school thinking, you can hit a ball harder and farther with a light bat than with a heavy bat because you can swing a light bat much faster. As acceptance of this fact has grown in recent years, the overwhelming trend in both baseball and softball has been to lighter bats. In case you need convincing, consider that NCAA and high school reviewing sports bodies have rules prohibiting baseball bats from being more than 3 ounces lighter in weight than the length of the bat in inches. This was done for safety reasons-it was thought that big, strong players swinging ultralight bats hit the ball so hard that infielders were at risk.

In Little League, however, light bats are not considered to be unsafe for defenders, because the players aren’t nearly as big and strong as their older counterparts. Even using an ultralight 19 ounce Little League bat, a typical 90 pound kid won’t be able to make up for the disparity in size and strength between himself and a college player. In fact, to have any chance of swinging with proper technique, most Little League players need an ultralight bat.

It’s a bad idea to get a baseball bat that’s too heavy for your Little Leaguer with the thought that he or she will "grow into it". Instead, your kid will learn bad habits trying to swing a bat that is too heavy. When in doubt about two bats, go with the lighter bat.

THE RULES

Little League baseball bats must be 32" or less and have barrels no more than 2¼ in diameter. The bat must also be made of an approved material, but need not actually say "approved by Little League" on the bat. In practice, every major manufacturer uses approved materials.

LENGTH AND WEIGHT

Manufacturers typically print the bat’s length in inches on the barrel or the handle. They also print the weight, either in ounces, or as "- something". The "-" stands for weight in ounces less than length in inches. In other words, a 30 inch bat designated as "-10" weighs 20 ounces. Weight: In general, buy a bat that is "-10" or lighter.

The table below probably covers 80% of the players in a given division, but, as they say, "your mileage may vary". Some kids are bigger than others; some are strong for their size; some have already developed good technique. The best any article can give you is a rule of thumb.

Division (age)..............Bat Length, Weight
Farm (7-8)..................26" or 27", -10 or lighter
Jr. Minors (8-9)............27" to 29", -10 or lighter
Sr. Minors (9-12)..........28" to 31", -10 or lighter
Majors (10-12).............29" to 32", -9 or lighter

MATERIALS

Wood is out - has been for years. Wood baseball bats are heavier, less durable, and have less "pop" than aluminum bats. Leave wood to the pros. Most modern bats are made of aircraft-grade aluminum supplied by Alcoa or Kaiser. Variations in the alloy formula have resulted in stronger alloys, allowing the manufacturers to design bats with thinner shell walls, which in turn corresponds to lighter weight. All of these advanced alloys are known by trade names (usually a number), as well as brand names (sometimes the same grade will be marketed under a different brand name by different bat makers). The brand names are heavily hyped: you can be sure that if a bat is made of an advanced alloy, that fact will be trumpeted somewhere on the bat, usually in large bold letters. By the same token, you should beware of bats -11 or lighter that do not state the type of alloy used. They will probably be made of an alloy that is too weak to support the thinner wall required for the light weight.

Standard aircraft aluminum is designated in the trade as "7046". Most budget bats are made of this grade. "7050" grade alloy includes a small amount of copper, and is about 33% stronger than 7046. About 12 years ago, Alcoa branded its 7050 grade "CU31" and began marketing it in Slo-Pitch bats as the first high performance alloy. The "CU" designation refers to the addition of copper to the alloy. Alcoa’s "C405" is the next higher grade, supposedly about 10% stronger than CU31. C405 as introduced 8 or 9 years ago, quickly followed by C405 Plus and C405 Ultra, which are the same alloy manufactured under difference processes. The strength difference between C405 and C405 Ultra is only about 5%. C405 Ultra is, therefore, about 38% stronger than standard aircraft aluminum. "7075" is a new alloy by Kaiser that is claimed to be equal to or better than C405 Ultra. Kaiser’s Sc500 Scandium, and Alcoa’s C500 and C555 represent the next level up. C500 and Sc500 Scandium are about 3-5% stronger than C405 Ultra, respectively. C555 is claimed to be about 7% stronger than C405 Ultra, or about 40% stronger than standard aircraft grade aluminum.

The current king of the hill is SC777, made by Kaiser. While the other exotic alloys only offer incremental strength gains over CU31, SC777, if the claims are true, represents a truly big leap: about 50% stronger than C405. This means that SC777 is nearly twice as strong as standard aircraft aluminum.

(Article dated June, 2003)

WHY ALLOY GRADES MATTER (AND WHY THEY MAY NOT)

There’s a lot of hype out there about the various alloys. Here’s why alloy grade really matters. Manufacturers use advanced alloys in order to be able to make the walls of the barrel of the bat thin while still allowing the bat to be strong enough to resist denting. Thin walls equal light weight. Thin walls are also claimed to contribute to a "trampoline" effect, or rebound, when the bat strikes the ball. The rebound effect enhances power, and therefore, distance, given the same swing speed. Think of throwing a baseball against a wall made of superball material, then against a wall made of concrete.

Other than allowing for thinner walls, however, there is little power to be gained from the exotic alloys themselves. The various alloys have virtually the same specific gravity, so the walls of a -11 CU31 bat are likely to be the same thickness as those of a -11 SC777 bat. There may be some difference in the trampoline effect, but it is negligible.

A good rule of thumb: stick to baseball bats made of CU31 or 7050 alloy or better for -10 bats, at least C405 for -11 bats, and C500 or better for -12 bats. If your child is 11 or 12 and uncommonly large and strong, consider Sc777. If the bat is -9 or heavier (I do not recommend bats heavier than -9 in Little League), alloy grade is not that important.

OTHER DESIGN FEATURES

In addition to advanced alloys, manufacturers also tout special features or manufacturing processes that supposedly increase the durability of their high-performance bats. Easton C-Core and Z-Core bats have carbon fiber bonded to the inside of the barrel walls for increased strength and durability. Easton C-Core and Z-Core bats do have a reputation for durability; whether their durability derives from the carbon fiber is anyone’s guess. Worth puts out several bats that hype a "cryogenic" manufacturing process. Testing by B&N Softball, an independent tester of slo-Pitch bats, has shown that "cryogenic" bats offer no strength advantage over non-cryogenic bats of the same alloy.

(Admittedly, this testing is now 2 years old; perhaps Worth’s newest "cryogenic" bats do offer some advantage. Personally I doubt it.) Worth also makes bats that employ variable wall thickness. This supposedly allows stronger, thicker areas to be adjacent to thinner areas, somehow making it less likely that the bats will dent. Louisville Slugger"Air" bats and some Nike bats are filled with pressurized nitrogen to keep the bat from denting. Seems to me that this would affect, and maybe even compromise, the trampoline effect, but I don’t know of any testing on the subject.

SHOPPING FOR A BAT

You can expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $200 for a Little League bat (yes! $200 for a kid’s bat!), so it pays to shop around, including on the Internet. As baseball bats become more and more of a status item, like skis, manufacturers come out with new designs, or at least new paint jobs, every year. Sometimes you can find last year’s model for a lot less than the current model, and sometimes last year’s model will actually be better.

Buying a Glove

2011-06-02T14:14:00.000-04:00

Use the chart below as a general guideline for determining glove size.

Age	Position	Glove Size
5-6	General	10 to 10 1/2 (youth model)
7-8	General	10 1/2 to 11 (youth model)
9-12	General	11 to 11 1/2 (youth model)
High School/Adult	Infield	11 to 11 1/2
High School/Adult	Outfield	12 to 12 1/2

	- Glove Buying Information -

	How to Measure Baseball Gloves Fielders gloves and first base mitts are measured by starting at the top of the index finger of the glove down the finger along the inside of the pocket and then out to the heal of the glove. A flexible tape measure has to be used, not a stiff ruler. Measure from the highest point on the glove (normally the index finger). Lay the tape measure across the palm of the glove, so that it folds across and into the indenture, down to the heel of the glove. Professional baseball has a 12 inch maximum height for a glove, although this rule has not been strictly enforced.

	Glove Quality Higher quality baseball gloves and mitts are usually distinguished by higher grade leather, better construction and better design. These work together to produce a glove or mitt that is durable and helps the ball into and out of the pocket. The highest quality gloves are usually made of heavy leather that will need some time to break-in and typically do not have palm pads or Velcro adjustments.

	Break-In Most manufacturers agree that a glove oil or leather conditioner cream should be used as long as it does not contain silicon. Most manufacturers recommend not using anything that requires a microwave or an oven. (Click here to check out Roberto Alomar's tips on Conditioning Your Glove)

	Gloves vs Mitts The main difference between baseball gloves and mitts is that gloves have fingers and mitts don't. Mitts tend to do a better job of controlling balls that don't hit in the pocket and can aid scooping ground balls and short hops. First base and Catcher are the only positions allowed to use mitts.

	Female Gloves Baseball gloves and mitts that are specified as women's or female are usually designed with narrower finger stalls and smaller wrist openings to provide a better fit.

	Youth Gloves Youth baseball gloves and mitts typically are designed to be easy to break-in and will sometimes have a notch in the heel to help the glove break-in correctly. These gloves are usually designed with smaller finger and wrist openings to better fit smaller hands, and often have oversized pockets to aid youngsters learning how to catch.

	First Base Mitts Most first base mitts are designed for baseball use and are 12 to 12 1/2 inches. First base mitts have a thin but stiff pad that runs around the circumference of the mitt and little or no padding in the palm or finger area. Larger baseball first base mitts can be effectively used by softball players. Some manufactures will make softball specific first base mitts. These are usually 13 inches or larger and are not very common. Many softball first basemen use a 13 to 14 inch softball outfield glove at first base.

	Catchers Mitts Baseball catcher's mitts usually have a very thick pad around the circumference of the mitt and thick padding in the palm and finger area and a small pocket. Softball catcher's mitts are similar to baseball catcher's mitts except the with less padding and a much larger pocket.

	Open vs Closed Web For most positions, an open web vs a closed web is a matter of personal preference. Open web gloves tend to trap the ball a little better than closed web gloves. Closed web gloves tend to get the ball out of the pocket a little quicker. First and Third base players tend to prefer open web gloves. Middle infielders tend to want closed web gloves to help get the ball out of the glove quickly. Pitchers usually want closed web gloves so they can hide the ball easier.

	Conventional Back vs Closed Back Conventional (open) vs closed back is mainly a matter of style and personal preference. Conventional back gloves tend to be a little lighter and can fit a bit tighter in the wrist. Some closed back gloves have straps with Velcro that allow you to adjust how tight or loose the glove fits.

	- Glove Buying Tips -
	Price A good glove does not have to be expensive. There are gloves that will give many seasons of satisfactory service for under $75. You can pay more, but more money does not necessarily mean a better, more serviceable glove. There are expensive gloves ($100-$200+) which may last one or two seasons, and there are inexpensive baseball gloves that can last for ten years or more with routine maintenance. The more expensive gloves do tend to use better (often heavier) leather than less expensive gloves. All things being equal, with careful maintenance, the higher quality glove should last longer. The question is "is the more expensive glove worth the price"?

	Size Select a glove for the position you will be playing most often. Use the chart at the top of this page as a general guideline for determining glove size. A glove should feel fairly snug when adjusted. Check to make sure the glove adjusts to your hand. Allow room for batting glove if you wear one. Except for pitchers, most players should wear a batting glove inside their fielders glove. The batting glove will absorb most of the sweat from your hands, thus protecting the lining of your glove. Change the batting glove when it gets wet or rotted.

	Quality The leather should be fairly sturdy. A stiffer glove will have to be broken in, but once done, the glove will be serviceable for many seasons. The softer "pre-broken" gloves feel great, but many of them wear out very quickly and may be difficult or impossible to repair. The leather in the pre-broken gloves is usually thinner and therefore weaker than that in a sturdier glove. The thinner, softer leathers tend to show signs of stress at the lacing holes in the web and fingers after a few months of continuous play.

	- Glove Materials -
	Manufacturers usually tout a glove's materials whenever they are made of something considered "premium" enough to provide a selling point. If a glove is made of full-grain leather or premium steerhide, the two top grades, the manufacturer will definitely print that fact prominently on the glove. Top-quality leather makes the best gloves, but the reality is, for a kid's glove that will be outgrown and discarded after a few years, premium materials are nice but not crucial. The original method of turning animal skins into leather is known as "vegetable tanning," which means the skins are tanned with tree bark or tree-bark extracts containing tannin. Vegetable-tanned leather undergoes a lengthy tanning process that results in a leather that is flexible and has superior moldability. The other primary method of tanning is called "chrome tanning," in which the skins are tanned with mineral salts. Chrome tanning can be done in a fraction of the time of vegetable tanning, and results in a stronger, more abrasion-resistant leather. Almost all baseball gloves today are chrome tanned leather. "Oil tanning" is a specialized process that is rarely seen today, and is used exclusively in split leathers such as chamois and buckskin. Rawlings claims to use oil-tanned leather in some of their gloves, but more likely the leather is chrome tanned and then oiled. Leather specialist Steve Laliloff, who made the gloves for the movie "Eight Men Out", stated that vegetable tanned leather is preferable and will last longer than chrome tanned leather, however, it's very difficult to obtain vegetable tanned leather, especially when a volume of gloves is being manufactured. Here are the basic Leather Grades and Types used in Baseball & Softball Gloves:

	Buffalo Skin Buffalo skin is used by only one manufacturer, Nokona. Buffalo skin is said to be tougher and lighter than full grain steer hide, but breaks in just as easily. Most people aren't going to want to get a Little Leaguer a buffalo skin glove because of the high price, but if they want to, it's out there.

	Full Grain Leather "Full-Grain" leather is steer hide or cow hide leather on which the entire natural grain remains. It will either be the original thickness of the skin, or the bottom grain will have been sanded off until the leather is the desired thickness. This grade is uncommon in youth gloves, but is readily available in premium adult gloves that come in sizes suitable for older Little Leaguers. Although in theory full grain leather can be any weight, in practice, gloves made of full grain leather tend to be stiffer and heavier than other types, and require longer break-in periods. These leathers are rarely pre-oiled, because the players who buy gloves of this quality usually want to apply their own particular break-in method. Once broken in, full grain leather gloves are superior in both performance and durability. Catchers' mitts are almost always made of full grain leather or premium steer hide.

	Top Grain Leather "Top-Grain" leather" is a misnomer; it is usually leather in which the "top" grain (the fur side) is sanded off until the leather is a desired thickness, and then filled or treated, where an artificial grain is introduced, usually by pressing. Many baseball gloves probably are top grain leather, but the manufacturers may not always use the phrase to describe the leather. Often they use a brand name instead. Nokona is the only manufacturer that says its gloves use "top grain leather." In Nokona's case, the leather is heavy weight and very durable. Wilson's "Quick-Stop" leather is also a top grain leather, but it is medium weight and has average durability.

	Premium Steer Hide Steer hide, which comes from neutered bulls, is somewhat stronger than cow hide. Manufacturers are free to call any steer hide "premium," but in practice they reserve this designation for their better grades of heavy weight steer hide, usually top grain, occasionally full grain. Gloves made of this leather tend to be stiff and somewhat heavy, with longer break-in periods. These leathers are sometimes pre-oiled. Many manufacturers have gone away from premium steerhide both because the market now demands softer gloves, and to save money because few consumers know the difference.

	Leather or Cow Hide "Leather" means cow hide, usually medium weight, but sometimes heavy weight. This category encompasses the greatest range of quality. Cow hide performs well, and will break in faster, but also wear out faster than steer hide. Usually this grade will come "pre-oiled" or otherwise treated to reduce break-in time. Cow hide is probably the best all-around choice for a youth glove for ages 10 and up. There are many good Leather glove bargains in the $25-$50 range.

	Kangaroo Skin Kangaroo skin is stronger than steer hide of any grade, and weighs a fraction as much. It is fairly new to the baseball glove market, and what grades are being used is anybody's guess. Some manufacturers use kangaroo only in premium gloves, while others use it only in their budget baseball gloves. Early reports say it breaks in easily but doesn't hold its shape as well as the better cow hide or steer hide grades. Often gloves are made with steer hide or cow hide palms for durability, and kangaroo skin backs for light weight.

	Pigskin Pigskin is far less durable than cowhide. However, it is more flexible and breaks in far more easily than cowhide, and costs less. Pigskin gloves are inexpensive, and can be ideal for a youngster who wants a good-performing glove but who may grow out of it in a year.

	- Youth Glove Manufacturer Reviews -

	Mizuno Mizuno gloves are universally well made, even their bargain models. Mizuno's top leather is "Double-Tanned Steerhide." This is a full grain steer hide. It is both vegetable and chrome tanned, which is an expensive process. Most of the rest of Mizuno's lineup is cow hide leather. Mizuno has several leathers, each with its own particular tanning process: "Retro Leather" and "Full Grain Leather" are heavier weight and more durable; "Tsunami Leather," "49er Leather," "Select Leather," and "One-Touch Leather" are medium weight and break in quickly. Mizuno youth models are generally found in their "Prospect" line of gloves, but gloves small enough for youths can be found in many of Mizuno's lines. Note, don't always rely on Mizuno's sales literature when deciding whether a particular glove size is right for your child. Mizuno's recommended glove sizes are often Too Large for the ages recommended. Mizuno's Youth Glove Line: 9 inch: Models MPR901P (pigskin), MPR901 ("Select" leather). Suitable for ages 8 and under. 10 inch: Models MPR1101P (pigskin), MPR1101 ("Select" leather). Suitable for ages 8 thru 12. 10 3/4 inch: Model TG108P (pigskin). Suitable for ages 9 thru 12. Perfect size for 11 and 12 year old infielders. 11 inch: Models MPR1102 ("One-touch" leather), MPR1100R ("Retro Leather"). Best for ages 11 and 12. 11 1/2 inch: Models MPR116P ("Select" leather), MRX115 ("Select" leather), MPR1152 ("One-touch" leather), MPR1150R ("Retro" leather). Largest Mizuno youth glove. Suitable for little leaguers over 12.
	Rawlings Rawlings offers a range of gloves priced from budget to premium, and uses a variety of materials, ranging from very good to very poor. Rawlings' top grade is called "Heart of the Hide." It is heavy-weight full grain steer hide that has been "oil-tanned" to greatly reduce break-in time. These gloves are popular with major leaguers. Rawlings' cheapest models are vinyl and probably should be avoided. Rawlings Youth Glove Line: 9 inch: Models RBG158 "Derek Jeter" (vinyl), RBG9P "Ken Griffey Jr." (pigskin). 10 inch: Models RBG106 "Kevin Brown" (synthetic), RBG10P "Derek Jeter" (pigskin). 10 1/2 inch: Models RBG119 "Tony Gwynn" (synthetic), RBG105P "Alex Rodriguez" (pigskin). 10 3/4 inch: Models GG017C "Gold Glove" (oil-tanned leather), PRO071G ("Heart of the Hide"). 11 inch: Models RBG129 "Alex Rodriguez" (synthetic), RBG110BF "Derek Jeter" (leather palm, synthetic back), RBG224 "Ken Griffey Jr. (leather), MMSO7BF "Millenium" (nubuck suede), GG10BF "Gold Glove" (oil-tanned leather), XPG110BCS "Heritage" (heavyweight oil-tanned leather), PRO15B "Gold Glove" ("Heart of the Hide"). 11 1/4 inch: Model PROS12IC "Pro Preferred" ("Heart of the Hide").
	Wilson Wilson's top grade of leather is found in their "Pro-Stock" models. It is heavy-weight full grain steer hide. Wilson has a variety of other leather brand names, each with its own tanning process, but the bottom line is all other Wilson brands are cow hide leather. Most Wilson youth models are found in its "Advisory Staff" and "EZ Catch" models, but Wilson makes gloves small enough for youths all the way up to the A2000 models. The EZ Catch models are youth-size gloves with extra-large, pre-broken-in pockets. I recommend the leather versions (avoid the vinyl versions). Wilson's Youth Glove Line: 9 inch: Models A2291, A2293 (vinyl), A1801, A1803 (leather). 9 1/2 inch: Models A2260, A2262 "EZ Catch" (vinyl), A2740, A2742 "EZ Catch" (leather). 10 inch: Models A2175, A2177 "Advisory Staff" (vinyl), A2741, A2743 "EZ Catch" (leather), A1805, A1807 "Pro" (leather). 10 1/2 inch: Models A2275, A2277, A2180, A2182 "Advisory Staff" (vinyl), A2744, A2746 "EZ Catch" (leather), A1811, A1813 "Pro" (leather), A1810, A1812 "Pro" (top grain steer hide). 10 3/4 inch: Models A1410VBT ("vortex" leather), A2000X1QSR "Quickstop" ("quickstop" leather), A2000H-1 "Pro-Stock" ("pro-stock" leather steer hide) . 11 inch: Models A2134, A2136 "Advisory Staff" (vinyl), A2144, A2146 "Advisory Staff" (leather palm and web, synthetic back), A1825, A1827 ("pro" leather), A1821, A1823 ("aztec" leather), A1505, A1507 "Staff" ("canyon" leather), A1721 ("rustic" leather), A1420VBT ("vortex" leather), A2000GQS2R "Quickstop" ("quickstop" leather), A2000X2 "Prostock" ("pro-stock" leather steer hide). 11 1/4 inch: Models A2000-1788QS ("quickstop" leather), A2000-OSI ("pro-stock" leather steer hide), A2000-1788BG ("pro-stock" leather steer hide).
	Easton Easton, traditionally a bat manufacturer, is new to the glove market but has quickly established itself as a top glove manufacturer. Easton's best grade of leather is called "Gladiator" steerhide. Easton makes a very popular "Natural" series of gloves using pre-oiled "Walnut tanned" leather. It is difficult to tell from Easton's press releases, but the "Walnut tanned" leather may be a vegetable tanned leather. Easton's Youth Glove Line: 9 inch: Models SL9 (synthetic), BPK9 (kangaroo/cow hide leather). 10 inch: Models BPK10 (kangaroo/cow hide leather), NAT1 ("Salz Walnut-tanned" leather). 10 1/2 inch: Models BPK105 (kangaroo/cow hide leather), NAT4 ("Salz Walnut-tanned" leather). 10 3/4 inch: Model USA40 ("Gladiator" Steer hide). 11 inch: Models BMX11 (leather), NAT3 ("Salz Walnut-tanned" leather), USA50 ("Gladiator" Steer hide), EPS 41 ("Gladiator" Steer hide). 11 1/4 inch: Model USA60 ("Gladiator" Steer hide).
	Lousiville Slugger Louisville Slugger's top brands are designated "TPX." TPX's top grade of leather is called "Maruhashi", which is roughly comparable to "premium steer hide". Louisville Slugger's Youth Glove Line: 9 inch: Model LS900 (leather palm, synthetic back). 9 1/2 inch: Model LS950 (leather palm, synthetic back). 10 1/2 inch: Models LS1050 (leather palm, synthetic back), TPX 1050S (pre-oiled steerhide), TPX Pro6 (Maruhashi). 10 3/4 inch: Model USA40 ("Gladiator" Steer hide). 11 inch: Model OPX1100 (pre-oiled leather). 11 1/4 inch: Model LS1125 (leather palm, synthetic back).
	Nokona Nokona is a premium glove manufacturer whose roots extend to the dawn of baseball. Nokona makes gloves out of top grain leather, cow hide, combinations of kangaroo and top grain or cow hide, and the ultimate in glove material: buffalo skin. Nokona's buffalo skin gloves, if you can find them, command prices over $250. Nokona's kangaroo-skin hybrid gloves are the next most expensive; they command a premium price over even the top grain models. Nokona "top grain leathers" are heavier and slightly more expensive than their "cow hide" gloves. Nevertheless, Nokona's cow hide gloves are heavy weight, and are generally considered equivalent in quality to other manufacturers' steer hide or even premium steer hide gloves. Nokona's leathers are "vegetable-tanned". Nokona is unique among glove manufacturers in that you can order a particular glove pattern with a choice of open or closed web, and often with a choice of the leather as well. Nokona makes three glove patterns that are small enough for youth baseball players: AMG66 (10"), AMG125 (10 ½"), and AMG100 (11").

	- Breaking In A New Glove -
	Apply a small amount of Glove Oil in the triangular area shown. Rub it into the leather until most of it has been absorbed, then wipe off the excess with a soft towel. Next, fold the glove at the hinge and excercise that area a bit. Then, fold the glove and squeeze the fold so that a crease can be formed along the triangle line from the index finger side to the hinge. After setting this crease, re-fold the glove and form a similar crease from the thumb side of the triangle to the hinge. The final step is to re-fold the glove so a crease can be formed from the center of the web crotch to the hinge. When finished with these steps you should be able to see three distinct creases fanning out from the hinge to the web crotch. After completing these steps (about 20 minutes) put the glove on your hand and close it a few times. You should be able to feel a difference in the way the glove responds. Repeat this procedure in a few days, but do not use the glove oil in excess. Here's a tip from one of our readers. He conditions a new glove using the above procedure, and then goes to a batting cage (at an off-peak hour, so there will be fewer distractions and less chance of injury). He buys a bucket of balls to catch, not to hit. He says that after one session the glove is game ready.

	- Caring For Your Glove -
	The most important part of caring for your glove is to recognize that leather will deteriorate if subjected to repeated exposure to moisture and heat. Saliva will also result in damaged leather, so Don't Spit In Your Glove. Leaving your glove out in the weather will ruin it, as will putting it away wet from perspiration. Always wear a batting glove under your baseball glove (except for pitchers) - this absorbs the sweat from your hand. When your batting glove gets wet, change it. This will add years to the lining of your glove. When your glove gets wet, dry it with a towel or soft cloth, and leave it exposed to room air for a few hours until the lining is dry. After it dries, use a little glove conditioner to moisten the leather. When you put your glove away, put a softball in the pocket and wrap it with a wide rubber band. Article from BaseballCorner.com

Double Cutoff

2011-05-31T23:25:00.000-04:00

The purpose of the double cutoff is to provide an easier target for an outfielder on a long throw from the gap or down the line. On these hits the outfielder is in the deepest part of the field and is trying to throw the ball as hard as he can to get it in quickly. Since he is unable to come in on the ball and gain momentum, this throw will often not be as accurate. By providing two infielders spaced apart, your team will have a better opportunity of having a successful relay. The way you handle cutoffs from the outfield will vary depending on age and skill level.

Many coaches continually yell out to the outfield during the game, "Hit the cutoff man", "Make sure you hit the cutoff", "Why didn't you hit the cutoff?". But, unless you practice plays which require a decision to be made during practice, your outfielders may not really understand why it's important. During practice don't always have the ball go through to the base. Have your players use "Cut" followed by a different base.

As with a single cutoff situation, don't overlook the positioning of the infielders as they get into position. You want the outfielder to make the longer throw and the infielder to make the shorter throw. If an outfielder is continually overthrowing both cutoff men in practice then chances are they are going to far out.

Tuesday Conversation: Mr. Baseball? Milazzo a candidate

2011-05-21T23:19:00.000-04:00

Joe Milazzo seems to have been involved with sports since before he could walk. He played several sports at Proctor High School, and baseball at Le Moyne College, Mohawk Valley Community College and Cortland State. Of course, there were several years playing American Legion baseball with Adrean Post. After his playing days, he coached baseball with Adrean, Notre Dame High School, MVCC and HCCC, and he currently coaches the Whitesboro girls junior varsity basketball team. He’s also involved with the Hitting Machine base-ball/softball facility.

Question: In a different lifetime, I used to cover American Legion baseball games when you played with Adrean Post. Tell me about those early playing days and what you remember most.

Answer: I made so many great friends. At Adrean, we were always the team to beat. I played with so many great players, we worked so hard and spent so much time together that we became great friends. Guys like Dan Bollana, Steve Nanna, Rick Siriano, Tom Everson, Frank DiBrango, Tom and Bob Fiesthumel, Dave Diodati, Leo Dudziak, Tom Pfisterer. We don’t see each other very often, but when we do, it just doesn’t seem like it was 30 some odd years ago.

Q: I remember you being a very spunky athlete. You weren’t tall, but you played hard every game. How did you view yourself as a player?

A: I always had great confidence in my ability as an athlete. Many people don’t know that I played four years of high school basketball and three years of high school football. Because of my size, many people, sometimes even my own coach, felt I was too small to play. I felt every time I took the field or the court, whether it was in practice or a game, I had to prove myself. I had to practice hard and play even harder.

Q: Who are some of the players you played against that were good and for whom you have a lot of respect?

A: In the late ’70s, Adrean Post–Smith Post of Rome was a fierce rivalry. This rivalry was so intense that there was hatred between players and fans. They had great players like Joe and Tony Abone, Todd Amann, Jim Korpela, Tony Grande, Tom Zmudosky. When I finished playing at Adrean, I played for the Rome Indians in a summer collegiate baseball league. Well, guess what guys were on the team? The Smith players were great guys and their fans were amazing. As a naïve, 19-year-old, I couldn’t understand how Smith Post people could be so friendly.

Q: Did you every envision yourself moving further on as a player than you did and how much of a change was it for you when you had to call it quits?

A: We all had “the dream.” My goal was always to play in the major leagues. It was very difficult to quit because I loved to play, but at the same time it was easy. I went to Le Moyne College because I was getting scholarship money, not a lot, but enough that along with other grants, I paid very little. Also, at the time, players were getting drafted out of Le Moyne every year. During my time at Le Moyne, we had pro scouts at all our games and practices. Never did any of those scouts talk to me. It was very hard to swallow, but it was time to face reality.

Q: You’ve been a baseball coach for about 30 years? What made you decide to get into coaching?

A: I always knew that if I couldn’t make a living out of playing, I would teach and coach, and it has been better than I could have ever imagined.

Q: Is there one coach who influenced you more than any other as a player?

A: Yes, my first coach, my father. Dad was a man with very little baseball knowledge but a man that was not afraid to work. He always used to say, “You have to work for everything; nobody is going give you anything. You need to earn it.”

Q: What did you learn as a player that you incorporate into coaching?

A: Work hard and great things will happen.

Q: You also work at The Hitting Machine. Tell me what you do there.

A: The Hitting Machine is a baseball/softball instructional school. The Hitting Machine has had many faces over the years. It was started by Mike Macchione and Don Guido. Currently, the school is run out of the Field of Dreams Sports Complex in Schuyler. We teach baseball/softball to youths of all ages.

Q: If you didn’t become involved in baseball, what would you be doing now?

A: Great question. I never really thought about it. I don’t believe there was ever any other option. It’s just what I’ve always done.

Q: Complete this sentence: “If there is one piece of advice I would hope all my players remember, it’s …

A: I always tried to instill hard work. I understand that not everyone is going to play, and success in baseball or sports is not the end of the world, but the will to be successful is. With that attitude, in life, when you find “the game” you are good at, there will be no stopping you.

By FRAN PERRITANO

Observer-Dispatch