There are several important coaching points that need to be remembered when teaching Little League players to run the bases correctly. This article presents 10 coaching points for little league baseball runners related to first baseball.
Coaching Points related to base running at 1st base:
1. The batter must sprint out of the batter's box and take a straight line path toward first base. The batter base runner must "honor" the base running box. The base running box allows the umpire to determine if a base runner is inside the base line. If a runner gets inside the foul line and a throw ball makes contact with the runner, the batter base runner is out. If a ball is a slow roller in the direction of first base, the batter base runner must avoid contact with the ball. Stepping on, contacting or touching the ball in fair territory will result in an out.
2. When a batter hits the ball his approach to first base is determined by the location of the hit ball as it travels into the field. If the ball is a fielded grounder, the base runner will run through the bag at 1st.
3. If the hit ball gets by the infielder, either as a hit or error, the batter base runner should do a "hook" path as he approaches first base to give him a straighter angle to advance to second base if the first base coach sends him.
4. The batter base runner should run hard through the bag when he is attempting to beat a throw to first. The runner should concentrate on running to a spot about 15 feet past the bag. When the runner touches the bag, the runner's foot should land on the front 1/3 of the bag.
5. The batter base runner should always look to the right when he crosses the bag on a close play. This look allows the batter base runner to see if the throw was missed by the first baseman.
6. If the base runner is sent to second, the runner should only contact the inner corner of the base as he makes the turn toward second base.
7. The runner should always run everything out as if the ball is fair. The runner should hustle and assume that all fly balls will be missed.
8. The runner must run out all foul balls because of the "roll back" rule. If a foul ball hits and kicks back into fair territory between home and 1st base or between home and 3rd base, the ball is fair. The ball will be fair as long as the ball does not contact a bat, fence, dugout, or fielder.
9. The batter base runner that sees an errant throw should not immediately advance to second. The runner must listen to his coach. The coach will make sure that the catcher is not trailing the play.
10. Older or advanced runners may be taught to read the firstbaseman's footwork to detect a possible catch ad tag play. If the throw from the fielder pulls the first baseman off the bag, the only possibility for getting the runner out is a tag. If the runner sees the first baseman coming off the bag toward him, he should slide to avoid the tag.
Monday, October 10, 2011
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Blocking Tips for Catchers
Before we explore today’s tip, first let’s review a few requirements for the successful blocking a wild pitch.
Remember, blocking is really three things combined into one:
In other words, if a catcher is still moving when the ball strikes his chest, the ricochet is going to bounce too far from his body to be effective. To best control and predict the trajectory of a blocked ball, the catcher must have stopped his forward momentum by the time he and ball meet.
I’ve yet to see someone get the job done consistently with slow, soft movements. For some reason when you go at a block lethargically, the body never completes it’s movement and the ricochet becomes impossible to control.
With that commitment, it just boils down to timing. Obviously, for an over-the-top curve you’re just going to wait longer than a hard slider to start the whole process.
Once comfortable with the timing, the violent blocking technique ultimately allows a catcher to stop body movement at the right time and control the ricochet of a wild pitch.
And when a catcher can do that, his pitching staff can go for the strike out and stay down in the zone with confidence.
Remember, blocking is really three things combined into one:
- First, the bounced ball must hit the catcher squarely in the chest area.
- Second, the resulting ricochet must stay close to his body.
- And to complete the play, the catcher must have enough athleticism to bounce on the block and throw out an aggressive base runner.
Staying Still
For today’s purposes, let’s take a better look at the second part--keeping the block close. If you recall, the reaction of two things moving towards and colliding with each other is going to be dramatic.In other words, if a catcher is still moving when the ball strikes his chest, the ricochet is going to bounce too far from his body to be effective. To best control and predict the trajectory of a blocked ball, the catcher must have stopped his forward momentum by the time he and ball meet.
Gotta Get Down
I’ve seen a wide variety of blocking methods, but almost all the good ones share this common trait. That is, good blockers get down quickly and with violent conviction.I’ve yet to see someone get the job done consistently with slow, soft movements. For some reason when you go at a block lethargically, the body never completes it’s movement and the ricochet becomes impossible to control.
Need for Speed
So to sum it up and to simplify, make all of your blocks one speed...fast. Regardless of the pitch’s velocity, be it a slow breaking ball or a fast ball, your reaction if it’s in the dirt is going to be violent and quick.With that commitment, it just boils down to timing. Obviously, for an over-the-top curve you’re just going to wait longer than a hard slider to start the whole process.
Once comfortable with the timing, the violent blocking technique ultimately allows a catcher to stop body movement at the right time and control the ricochet of a wild pitch.
And when a catcher can do that, his pitching staff can go for the strike out and stay down in the zone with confidence.
Saturday, August 6, 2011
History of The Slide in Baseball
Overview
You have many ways to help your baseball team win. One of them is baserunning. It's not just about speed. Great baserunners have instincts about the fielder who is throwing the ball and the situation his team faces in a game. He also knows how to get a good jump off the base and slide properly to avoid a tag. A proper slide can be the difference in winning and losing.Early Slides
The slide was made famous before the 20th century by "Sliding" Billy Hamilton, who played for the Kansas City Cowboys, Philadelphia Phillies and the Boston Beaneaters. Hamilton was an excellent hitter who used his speed to become the first prolific base stealer in the game's history. Hamilton finished his career with 937 stolen bases and once stole seven bases in a game.Spikes High
In the early part of the 20th century, the game turned quite vicious and players not only tried to win games, they also tried to injure their opponents. John McGraw, the manager of the New York Giants, urged his players to go into a base with their spikes high and attempt to cut a fielder who tried to tag a Giant base runner out. McGraw's Giants were one of the game's dominant teams and they set a trend that others followed. Nobody picked up the "spikes high" sliding routine more than Ty Cobb. The Detroit Tigers' star center fielder may have been the best hitter to play the game and he finished his career with 892 stolen bases when he retired after the 1928 season. Cobb would sharpen his metal spikes before games to intimidate opposing fielders who attempted to tag him out. Baseball eventually stopped base runners from sharpening their spikes and attempting to injure competitors.Head First Slide
While the practice can lead to injury, the head-first slide is often looked at by baseball players as one of the most efficient ways of sliding into a base effectively. The upside of sliding head first is that you can easily maneuver your body and your hands on a close play, and you have a better chance of avoiding a tag. The downside is that it can lead to injury. A fielder may slap a hard tag down and injure a player's wrists or fingers. That tag could miss the player's hands and end up hitting him in the head, leading to additional injuries. Many players have used the head first slide over the years but Pete Rose mastered it during his career with the Cincinnati Reds, Philadelphia Phillies and Montreal Expos. Hall of Famer Ricky Henderson, baseball's all-time leader in stolen bases, also used the head first slide to dominate the game. He is baseball's all-time leader in stolen bases with 1,406.Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Buying the Right Baseball Bat
*** Baseball Bat Types *** |
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- General Terms - |
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| - Choosing Youth Baseball Bats - |
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Thursday, June 2, 2011
Buying a Glove
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| Use the chart below as a general guideline for determining glove size. | | | ||||||||||||||||||
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| | - Glove Buying Information - | |
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| | Fielders gloves and first base mitts are measured by starting at the top of the index finger of the glove down the finger along the inside of the pocket and then out to the heal of the glove. A flexible tape measure has to be used, not a stiff ruler. Measure from the highest point on the glove (normally the index finger). Lay the tape measure across the palm of the glove, so that it folds across and into the indenture, down to the heel of the glove. Professional baseball has a 12 inch maximum height for a glove, although this rule has not been strictly enforced. | |
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| | Higher quality baseball gloves and mitts are usually distinguished by higher grade leather, better construction and better design. These work together to produce a glove or mitt that is durable and helps the ball into and out of the pocket. The highest quality gloves are usually made of heavy leather that will need some time to break-in and typically do not have palm pads or Velcro adjustments. | |
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| | Most manufacturers agree that a glove oil or leather conditioner cream should be used as long as it does not contain silicon. Most manufacturers recommend not using anything that requires a microwave or an oven. (Click here to check out Roberto Alomar's tips on Conditioning Your Glove) | |
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| | The main difference between baseball gloves and mitts is that gloves have fingers and mitts don't. Mitts tend to do a better job of controlling balls that don't hit in the pocket and can aid scooping ground balls and short hops. First base and Catcher are the only positions allowed to use mitts. | |
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| | Baseball gloves and mitts that are specified as women's or female are usually designed with narrower finger stalls and smaller wrist openings to provide a better fit. | |
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| | Youth baseball gloves and mitts typically are designed to be easy to break-in and will sometimes have a notch in the heel to help the glove break-in correctly. These gloves are usually designed with smaller finger and wrist openings to better fit smaller hands, and often have oversized pockets to aid youngsters learning how to catch. | |
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| | Most first base mitts are designed for baseball use and are 12 to 12 1/2 inches. First base mitts have a thin but stiff pad that runs around the circumference of the mitt and little or no padding in the palm or finger area. Larger baseball first base mitts can be effectively used by softball players. Some manufactures will make softball specific first base mitts. These are usually 13 inches or larger and are not very common. Many softball first basemen use a 13 to 14 inch softball outfield glove at first base. | |
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| | Baseball catcher's mitts usually have a very thick pad around the circumference of the mitt and thick padding in the palm and finger area and a small pocket. Softball catcher's mitts are similar to baseball catcher's mitts except the with less padding and a much larger pocket. | |
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| | For most positions, an open web vs a closed web is a matter of personal preference. Open web gloves tend to trap the ball a little better than closed web gloves. Closed web gloves tend to get the ball out of the pocket a little quicker. First and Third base players tend to prefer open web gloves. Middle infielders tend to want closed web gloves to help get the ball out of the glove quickly. Pitchers usually want closed web gloves so they can hide the ball easier. | |
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| | Conventional (open) vs closed back is mainly a matter of style and personal preference. Conventional back gloves tend to be a little lighter and can fit a bit tighter in the wrist. Some closed back gloves have straps with Velcro that allow you to adjust how tight or loose the glove fits. | |
| | - Glove Buying Tips - | |
| | A good glove does not have to be expensive. There are gloves that will give many seasons of satisfactory service for under $75. You can pay more, but more money does not necessarily mean a better, more serviceable glove. There are expensive gloves ($100-$200+) which may last one or two seasons, and there are inexpensive baseball gloves that can last for ten years or more with routine maintenance. The more expensive gloves do tend to use better (often heavier) leather than less expensive gloves. All things being equal, with careful maintenance, the higher quality glove should last longer. The question is "is the more expensive glove worth the price"? | |
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| | Select a glove for the position you will be playing most often. Use the chart at the top of this page as a general guideline for determining glove size. A glove should feel fairly snug when adjusted. Check to make sure the glove adjusts to your hand. Allow room for batting glove if you wear one. Except for pitchers, most players should wear a batting glove inside their fielders glove. The batting glove will absorb most of the sweat from your hands, thus protecting the lining of your glove. Change the batting glove when it gets wet or rotted. | |
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| | The leather should be fairly sturdy. A stiffer glove will have to be broken in, but once done, the glove will be serviceable for many seasons. The softer "pre-broken" gloves feel great, but many of them wear out very quickly and may be difficult or impossible to repair. The leather in the pre-broken gloves is usually thinner and therefore weaker than that in a sturdier glove. The thinner, softer leathers tend to show signs of stress at the lacing holes in the web and fingers after a few months of continuous play. | |
| | - Glove Materials - | |
| | Manufacturers usually tout a glove's materials whenever they are made of something considered "premium" enough to provide a selling point. If a glove is made of full-grain leather or premium steerhide, the two top grades, the manufacturer will definitely print that fact prominently on the glove. Top-quality leather makes the best gloves, but the reality is, for a kid's glove that will be outgrown and discarded after a few years, premium materials are nice but not crucial. The original method of turning animal skins into leather is known as "vegetable tanning," which means the skins are tanned with tree bark or tree-bark extracts containing tannin. Vegetable-tanned leather undergoes a lengthy tanning process that results in a leather that is flexible and has superior moldability. The other primary method of tanning is called "chrome tanning," in which the skins are tanned with mineral salts. Chrome tanning can be done in a fraction of the time of vegetable tanning, and results in a stronger, more abrasion-resistant leather. Almost all baseball gloves today are chrome tanned leather. "Oil tanning" is a specialized process that is rarely seen today, and is used exclusively in split leathers such as chamois and buckskin. Rawlings claims to use oil-tanned leather in some of their gloves, but more likely the leather is chrome tanned and then oiled. Leather specialist Steve Laliloff, who made the gloves for the movie "Eight Men Out", stated that vegetable tanned leather is preferable and will last longer than chrome tanned leather, however, it's very difficult to obtain vegetable tanned leather, especially when a volume of gloves is being manufactured. Here are the basic Leather Grades and Types used in Baseball & Softball Gloves: | |
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| | "Full-Grain" leather is steer hide or cow hide leather on which the entire natural grain remains. It will either be the original thickness of the skin, or the bottom grain will have been sanded off until the leather is the desired thickness. This grade is uncommon in youth gloves, but is readily available in premium adult gloves that come in sizes suitable for older Little Leaguers. Although in theory full grain leather can be any weight, in practice, gloves made of full grain leather tend to be stiffer and heavier than other types, and require longer break-in periods. These leathers are rarely pre-oiled, because the players who buy gloves of this quality usually want to apply their own particular break-in method. Once broken in, full grain leather gloves are superior in both performance and durability. Catchers' mitts are almost always made of full grain leather or premium steer hide. | |
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| | "Top-Grain" leather" is a misnomer; it is usually leather in which the "top" grain (the fur side) is sanded off until the leather is a desired thickness, and then filled or treated, where an artificial grain is introduced, usually by pressing. Many baseball gloves probably are top grain leather, but the manufacturers may not always use the phrase to describe the leather. Often they use a brand name instead. Nokona is the only manufacturer that says its gloves use "top grain leather." In Nokona's case, the leather is heavy weight and very durable. | |
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| | Steer hide, which comes from neutered bulls, is somewhat stronger than cow hide. Manufacturers are free to call any steer hide "premium," but in practice they reserve this designation for their better grades of heavy weight steer hide, usually top grain, occasionally full grain. Gloves made of this leather tend to be stiff and somewhat heavy, with longer break-in periods. These leathers are sometimes pre-oiled. Many manufacturers have gone away from premium steerhide both because the market now demands softer gloves, and to save money because few consumers know the difference. | |
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| | "Leather" means cow hide, usually medium weight, but sometimes heavy weight. This category encompasses the greatest range of quality. Cow hide performs well, and will break in faster, but also wear out faster than steer hide. Usually this grade will come "pre-oiled" or otherwise treated to reduce break-in time. Cow hide is probably the best all-around choice for a youth glove for ages 10 and up. There are many good Leather glove bargains in the $25-$50 range. | |
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| | Kangaroo skin is stronger than steer hide of any grade, and weighs a fraction as much. It is fairly new to the baseball glove market, and what grades are being used is anybody's guess. Some manufacturers use kangaroo only in premium gloves, while others use it only in their budget baseball gloves. Early reports say it breaks in easily but doesn't hold its shape as well as the better cow hide or steer hide grades. Often gloves are made with steer hide or cow hide palms for durability, and kangaroo skin backs for light weight. | |
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| | Pigskin is far less durable than cowhide. However, it is more flexible and breaks in far more easily than cowhide, and costs less. Pigskin gloves are inexpensive, and can be ideal for a youngster who wants a good-performing glove but who may grow out of it in a year. | |
| | - Youth Glove Manufacturer Reviews - | |
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| | Mizuno gloves are universally well made, even their bargain models. Mizuno's top leather is "Double-Tanned Steerhide." This is a full grain steer hide. It is both vegetable and chrome tanned, which is an expensive process. Most of the rest of Mizuno's lineup is cow hide leather. Mizuno has several leathers, each with its own particular tanning process: "Retro Leather" and "Full Grain Leather" are heavier weight and more durable; "Tsunami Leather," "49er Leather," "Select Leather," and "One-Touch Leather" are medium weight and break in quickly. Mizuno youth models are generally found in their "Prospect" line of gloves, but gloves small enough for youths can be found in many of Mizuno's lines. Note, don't always rely on Mizuno's sales literature when deciding whether a particular glove size is right for your child. Mizuno's recommended glove sizes are often Too Large for the ages recommended. Mizuno's Youth Glove Line:
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| | Rawlings offers a range of gloves priced from budget to premium, and uses a variety of materials, ranging from very good to very poor. Rawlings' top grade is called "Heart of the Hide." It is heavy-weight full grain steer hide that has been "oil-tanned" to greatly reduce break-in time. These gloves are popular with major leaguers. Rawlings' cheapest models are vinyl and probably should be avoided. Rawlings Youth Glove Line:
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| | Wilson's top grade of leather is found in their "Pro-Stock" models. It is heavy-weight full grain steer hide.
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| | Louisville Slugger's top brands are designated "TPX." TPX's top grade of leather is called "Maruhashi", which is roughly comparable to "premium steer hide".
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| | Nokona is a premium glove manufacturer whose roots extend to the dawn of baseball. Nokona makes gloves out of top grain leather, cow hide, combinations of kangaroo and top grain or cow hide, and the ultimate in glove material: buffalo skin. Nokona's buffalo skin gloves, if you can find them, command prices over $250. Nokona's kangaroo-skin hybrid gloves are the next most expensive; they command a premium price over even the top grain models. Nokona "top grain leathers" are heavier and slightly more expensive than their "cow hide" gloves. Nevertheless, Nokona's cow hide gloves are heavy weight, and are generally considered equivalent in quality to other manufacturers' steer hide or even premium steer hide gloves. Nokona's leathers are "vegetable-tanned". Nokona is unique among glove manufacturers in that you can order a particular glove pattern with a choice of open or closed web, and often with a choice of the leather as well. Nokona makes three glove patterns that are small enough for youth baseball players: AMG66 (10"), AMG125 (10 ½"), and AMG100 (11"). | |
| | - Breaking In A New Glove - | |
| | Apply a small amount of Glove Oil in the triangular area shown. Rub it into the leather until most of it has been absorbed, then wipe off the excess with a soft towel. Next, fold the glove at the hinge and excercise that area a bit. Then, fold the glove and squeeze the fold so that a crease can be formed along the triangle line from the index finger side to the hinge. | |
| | - Caring For Your Glove - | |
| | The most important part of caring for your glove is to recognize that leather will deteriorate if subjected to repeated exposure to moisture and heat. Saliva will also result in damaged leather, so Don't Spit In Your Glove. Leaving your glove out in the weather will ruin it, as will putting it away wet from perspiration. Always wear a batting glove under your baseball glove (except for pitchers) - this absorbs the sweat from your hand. When your batting glove gets wet, change it. This will add years to the lining of your glove. When your glove gets wet, dry it with a towel or soft cloth, and leave it exposed to room air for a few hours until the lining is dry. After it dries, use a little glove conditioner to moisten the leather. When you put your glove away, put a softball in the pocket and wrap it with a wide rubber band. Article from BaseballCorner.com | |
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